Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

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Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby gbagua » Wed 03 Aug, 2022 7:53 pm

It seems someone recently had a go at it:

https://peakery.com/north-east-rock-aus ... ts/364848/

The first traverse does done by Bob Waring in 1949:

https://climbinghistoryoz.blogspot.com/ ... g.html?m=0

I personally feel it is not climbing but extreme scrambling in a lateral fashion.

Why The Crag rates it with 3 stars is something I don’t quite understand since probably has seen as many roped attempts s fingers there are in my hands and also with a questionable rock quality.

I thought of giving it a go too, unroped of course; but after conducting a background check about the route I decided not to. Not worth coming down the north face of Leaning while holding a chunk of rock that just came off while saying holy *&%$#!! :mrgreen:

Barney after the 2019 bushfires has suffered a lot and rock that was solid 10 years ago can’t be trusted today.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby CBee » Sat 06 Aug, 2022 2:20 pm

Free solo masters (rockclimbing without ropes or gear), generally speaking they rehearse the route on rope until every single move is dialled. The route is usually few or many grades below the climber's technical limit and most importantly, the rock has to be very good (bomber), because the mental challenge of making a move in a position where a mistake means death, is already huge and you don't want to add the odds of holds or blocks crumbling on you. That's why I don't get it when people play russian roulette with routes like the Comino-Waring, unroped. They are obviously not free soloists and most of the time not even rock climbers, because even a beginner rock climber thinking is invincible, would not free solo a obscure route where a slip or a rock coming off (highly possible event) means certain death. But this is from a rock climber perspective.

Now from an alpine perspective, the Comino-Waring route is the obvious line of least resistance to bypass the vertical cliffs of Leaning Peak (the hiker's abseil) if you coming from Barney North Peak and you want for some reason make your descent via Short Leaning Ridge. If this is the case, aside from the mandatory 50m rope, you'll need a small rack and few slings to protect the traverse. To me personally it doesn't make sense to travel that direction for a number of reasons unless climbing the Comino-Waring is the dream of your life or your cup of tea. It looks uninteresting, ugly, vegetated and the rock seems very poor. But by looking at it, to me is perfectly climbable providing is protected properly. My 2c.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby sandym » Mon 08 Aug, 2022 2:11 pm

Does anyone rehearse a grade 12 climb?
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby CBee » Mon 08 Aug, 2022 4:41 pm

sandym wrote:Does anyone rehearse a grade 12 climb?

You have missed (again) the point. Not surprisingly.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby sandym » Tue 09 Aug, 2022 7:07 am

Entirely possible. I find your posts difficult to understand.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby CBee » Tue 09 Aug, 2022 3:22 pm

sandym wrote:Entirely possible. I find your posts difficult to understand.

Yep. That. And also looks like you find difficult to understand a grade 12 from 1949.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby gbagua » Wed 10 Aug, 2022 8:57 am

CBee wrote:.and the rock seems very poor. But by looking at it, to me is perfectly climbable providing is protected properly.


Reason why I won’t bother giving it a go. I always liked to explore different options which is why I planned to scramble the traverse. If rock quality was like the Salmon traverse at Tibro, no issues I wouldn’t hesitate at all. Interesting how the rock quality at the crux of Leaning Peak (25-30m) before starting the walk tp the summit is bomber but in that section of the North Face is just sketchy as. I guess it is caused by the sun and specific air currents.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby CBee » Wed 10 Aug, 2022 9:40 am

gbagua wrote:
CBee wrote:.and the rock seems very poor. But by looking at it, to me is perfectly climbable providing is protected properly.


Reason why I won’t bother giving it a go. I always liked to explore different options which is why I planned to scramble the traverse. If rock quality was like the Salmon traverse at Tibro, no issues I wouldn’t hesitate at all. Interesting how the rock quality at the crux of Leaning Peak (25-30m) before starting the walk tp the summit is bomber but in that section of the North Face is just sketchy as. I guess it is caused by the sun and specific air currents.

But you could actually do the traverse after you rap from the summit. After all, you already have a rope, you just need to bring some slings and few nuts. Then you can make your way down the rigde (using the rope again if needed).
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby gbagua » Fri 12 Aug, 2022 1:01 pm

Yes but my idea was doing the whole thing without any gear bypassing the summit rap off, heading to the saddle past the tree used for belaying the crux of SLR.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby CBee » Fri 12 Aug, 2022 3:16 pm

Ok I can see what you are trying to do. And I agree. Way too sketchy and not worth the risk.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby gbagua » Mon 15 Aug, 2022 9:38 am

And I think the guy who tried to do the same thing panicked by the look of his 'selfie' after experiencing a crimp coming off and nearly taking a fall.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby CBee » Mon 15 Aug, 2022 4:05 pm

gbagua wrote:And I think the guy who tried to do the same thing panicked by the look of his 'selfie' after experiencing a crimp coming off and nearly taking a fall.
Next time I'm up there I'll give it a crack on rope. I still need to do LL Ridge. There is a photo of the WC Ledge on the book "Secrets of the Scenic Rim". Scary is an understatement.
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Re: Leaning Peak (Mt Barney) - Comino-Waring ledge

Postby gbagua » Tue 16 Aug, 2022 9:24 am

LLR has an interesting take on the approach; the best part being the razorback before the two ridges meet. But I heard after the bushfires it has become dangerous too! Rock is very crumbly. Who knows a large chunk of rock may even detach from the whole razorback eventually in similar fashion to the Hole-in-the-Wall (next to Mt. Castle) which collapsed and now is gone. This last report was from someone who did LLR around this time last year, they bailed on the razorback, rapped off from a tree and had to walk the easier option which is contouring at the base.
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